Okay Elizabeth, it looks like I'm adding in a side seam pocket. You just had to put that idea in my head, didn't you? And I came so close to knitting Must Have with only minor bust-row dart modifications! But it's clearly pocket time in Shadowland.
There are a couple of ways to do it.
I could just knit a square, and then sew it in ... bottom edge along the top of the ribbing, one side in the appropriate place on the sweater front, and then the other side craftily into the side seam. But that's a pocket that will pull against the smooth line of the front of the sweater. It'll be obvious. Nobody wants an obvious pocket. If I wanted an obvious pocket, I'd just sew a patch pocket on the front and be done with it. (Heck, I could be almost subtle and knit up a patch that had the same cable pattern as the front, and sew that on -- it might even look like I meant it). But I don't want a patch pocket.
I want a subtle pocket. That means I'll be knitting the whole pocket, and slipping it into the side seam (why else did I forgo finishing the sewing up on the sides??). This means that where the pocket sits, there will be three layers of fabric, not just two.
Now, I could just knit a big rectangle, fold it in half and sew up two of the edges and then insert the last open side into the side of my sweater. But the fold won't be a strong as a cast on edge, and will b bulkier than you want it to be. Not only that, but it makes for one extra bit of seam to sew.
Besides, it's not classy. And since my public not only deserves classy, but has asked for a bit of double knitting, I'll double knit this one.
Step one... cast on for the pocket. Me, I cast on forty stitches. It was pretty arbitrary.
Step two, work the set up row by purling into the front and back of every stitch. (whoof, 80 stitches!)
Step three, start the double knitting....
Now, there are two ways to do this too. One uses one strand of yarn, the other uses two strands.
The simplest way to do it for this pocket uses one strand. And frankly, there are no benefits to using a second strand, because doing so creates an added complication to keeping one side closed. Thus... for this lesson, we're using one strand of yarn.
So I've got a bunch of stitches on the needle... Half of them will be "front" stitches, and the other half will be "back" stitches.
For the "right side" row, I'm going to knit the front stitches only, and then on the "wrong side" row, I'll work only the back stitches. To get that done, it will go like this:
Row 1: (sl 1 with yarn in front, knit one) repeat. (That slips the back stitches, and works the front stitches, making sure that the yarn runs between the layers of the fabric)
Row two will be equally simple... but you have to decide whether you want a purl side showing or a knit side showing on the back. For a knit side showing, just repeat Row 1! (How easy is that?)
For a purl side showing do this:
Row 2: (sl 1 with yarn in front, purl one) repeat (This time, it slips the front stitches, and works the back stitches, leaving you with a fabric that is double thickness, but invisibly so, since looks like a regular stockinette fabric.)
There, that wasn't so hard, was it?
But wait! If we do it this way, we'll have a lovely double thick piece of fabric -- with two closed sides! That's fine if want to stuff it for a pillow or something, but for a pocket you'd have to turn the piece on it's side, and use what is now the top as the side of the pocket into which one slips ones hand. But what if you wanted the SIDE to be the entrance to the pocket? A side entrance would give you a nice firm bottom edge. (Not to mention a one-to-one ratio for sewing up the seam).' So... I at least want one side of this square to be open while the other side is closed. There is a way to do that.
Let's go with the knit side out option for both sides. Rows 1 and 2 stay the same. Rows 3 and 4 have to be different.
Row 1: (sl 1 with yarn in front, knit one) repeat.
Row 2: (sl 1 with yarn in front, knit one) repeat. (or, if you're going for the purl look, sl1, p1)
Row 3: (p1, sl 1 with yarn in back) repeat. (or, if you're going for the purl look, k1, sl1)
Row 4: (p1, sl 1 with yarn in back) repeat.
Repeat these four rows until your pocket is large enough and you'll have the open side to work with.. To finish...
Last Row: k2tog across, then bind off.
Voila! A pocket with one side open! Make another, and then we'll look at slipping them into the side seams of the sweater. I'll be back when I have two pockets ready to "install".