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September 06, 2009


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I do the same thing, basically, by using a circular and knitting, without the knit 4 rows, for every 2, while trying to remember to slip every other stitch.

Do you see any advantage to the double knitting, other than a parlor trick? Not to denigrate parlor tricks, but double knitting just drives me crazy. (Short drive I know,(like slip stitches just for the purpose of avoiding using 2 colors per row))


I do find that there are places where double knitting really is a better plan. For pockets that you slip into the middle of a section of knitting (the piece you're knitting is, oh, 12 x 23, but the pocked will only be 8 x 5), I find a bit of double knitting creates a seamless pocket that doesn't pull on the outside, and eliminates fiddly sewing in later.

I've also used it to make double thick heels on socks. They're comfy and chushy and don't wear as quickly.

And, when you want a reversible object that is two (or more I suppose) colors that are inverses, double knitting can't be beat.


Hmmm...... I'm going to have to sit down with yarn and needles and actually do this to see how it works....


So THAT'S how you do it! Awesome. And using double knitting for the heels of socks? Awesome x2.

I just leaned back in my chair, closed my eyes, and thought I had figured out how to insert a front pocket into the front of a garment. Except that once I thought about it some more, I realized that the double-knit pocket will only be half as many rows tall as the surrounding knitting. Okay. I guess that means that the pocket must be double-knit as a separate piece until it is the desired height, then inserted: (RS) work across garment front until you reach the spot where the upper right corner of pocket will go. Using the garment working yarn, work across the top edge of the BACK of the pocket. If pocket is 20 st across, slip that same number of st of the garment front to a holder or piece of waste yarn, slip the 20 st from the top front edge of the pocket onto another holder or piece of yarn, then continue working across the top back edge of the pocket, using the garment working yarn. Continue working the garment front as usual. Eventually, you go back and finish off those stitches on holders -- 3-needle bind off? Slip them all onto one holder, alternating one stitch from the garment with one from the pocket front and work across them all K2tog and binding off at the same time? Must experiment to see which looks better. (Also must follow my own directions and see if it works.)

Hmmm. My current knitting projects are a chemo hat and some felted wine bottle sacks. I wonder if any of those need a pocket...


I'll be addressing this more thoroughly in the post on working a pocket WHILE you're knitting. When I do that, I don't feel the need to do the three layer thing because there are no seams to distort the front of the garment.

Thus, for double knitting a pocket as you go, you're working the front in pattern for the front of the garment, and the back as the lining. If you've ever knit a Wallaby (adorable hoody pattern for a knitted pullover sweatshirt) (http://www.paradisefibers.net/Cottage-Creations-Wonderful-Wallaby-Pattern-p/3006.htm), you've started a pocket,... worked it separately, and then joined it back in when the body got to the same height. Double knitting lets you work both at the same time (no guessing as to whether you've really knit the same number of rows).

So... yes, if you were doing a full pocket, that would yield a three layer spot when done, you'd have half as high a pocket as body ... but if you' do the two layer version, you've got exactly the right height -- but you knit it differently -- with TWO strands of yarn. So there will be no slipping involved.

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